uncomplicated Lawnmower Maintenance

Mower Oil - uncomplicated Lawnmower Maintenance

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Do you have trouble beginning your lawnmower up in the spring? Before choosing to take your lawnmower in for repair, try these few uncomplicated suggestions. After completing them most of the time your lawnmower will fire up and run like a champ.

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Pull and clean the Spark Plug

Most of the time simply cleaning the spark plug will solve your lawnmower woes. To do this, disconnect the wire attached to the end of the spark plug. Then using a wrench or a Ratchet/Socket, take off the spark plug. If the spark plug is black or wet looking, you have probably found your qoute on why the lawnmower is not starting.

Using fine grit sandpaper, sand the top of the spark plug down to bare metal. Make sure you sand all nearby the edges of the piece of metal (tab) that sits just above the electrode. Make sure that there is a gap in the middle of the metal tab and the electrode. If you still have the lawnmower hand-operated and a feeler gauge you can adjust the gap to the specifications. However, if there is a small gap it is probably enough for the spark plug to operate correctly.

Make sure the spark plug is free of dust and dry. Then screw it back into the cylinder and join together back the wire to the end of the spark plug. Then try beginning the lawn mower.

Check for Oil

Make sure there is oil in the lawnmower and that it is at the allowable level.

Check for Fuel

Make sure there is gas in the lawn mower. If you have old gas in the lawnmower and did not put in a fuel stabilizer at the end of the season, replace the gas. If you had drained the gas tank at the end of the former season, then fill the tank at least half full with new gas.

Check the Fuel Line

Like many of us, at the end of the former lawn mowing season we turn off the fuel line switch. Make sure it is in the on position. If you have done all of the above and the machine will not fire, then check to see if the fuel is getting to the carburetor. Temporarily disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and see if gas pours out. If so reconnect the hose. If not, then check the fuel line. It may be gummed up or the fuel filter is clogged.

Check the Air Filter

Make sure the Air Filter is clean. If it is dirty and oily then replace it. If it just dirty shake it and knock out some of the dust. This may solve your problem; any way I would still recommend replacing it.

Clean the Carburetor

First turn off the fuel line. Disassembling and cleaning the carburetor is not as bad as you may think. Usually there is a nut on the underside of the carburetor. take off this and pull the bottom quantum of the carburetor off. Clean the inside of this lower quantum of the carburetor and then make sure the float valve moves up and down freely. The float valve is a plastic object about 1.5" in diameter that hangs down when you take off the lower quantum of the carburetor.

Reconnect the lower quantum of the carburetor and turn on the fuel line again.

Try restarting the lawnmower. If it still does not work after performing all of these procedures, then take it to a heal shop. However, from personal sense these procedures Usually solve the problem.

Sharpen the Blade

Finally, make sure you sharpen the blade. This will ensure you minimize the torque on the machine while cutting the grass. Not to mention, your lawn will get a more even cut.

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Testing Coil - 3 uncomplicated Methods To Accurately Test Any Coils Or Inductor

Mower Oil - Testing Coil - 3 uncomplicated Methods To Accurately Test Any Coils Or Inductor

Hello everybody. Now, I found out about Mower Oil - Testing Coil - 3 uncomplicated Methods To Accurately Test Any Coils Or Inductor. Which could be very helpful to me and you. Testing Coil - 3 uncomplicated Methods To Accurately Test Any Coils Or Inductor

Testing coil is very easy compares to checking three leads components such as Scr, Fet and etc. In general, a coil consists of many turns or wire wrapped nearby a base core. The core could be made of iron or even air. When an electric current passes straight through the coil, a magnetic field is produced. A coil in some respect s acts just opposite a capacitor. A capacitor blocks Dc while allowing Ac to flow straight through it; a coil allows Dc to flow straight through it while restricting Ac current flow. Another name for a coil is an inductor.

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Coil or inductor can be test using an analog, inductance or a coil meter such as the dick smith flyback tester. A coil that is small in size, I would normally just test it with analog meter and you could check it on board too. Set your analog meter to X1 ohm and place the probes across the small coil. The meter should show some reading (or continuity) and this proved that the coil winding is okay. Small coils seldom spoilt because it have less winding compares to big coils where it could have many turns of winding and chances for it to go shorted is very high.

Testing bigger coil or inductor such as the computer monitor B+ coil, you need an inductance meter to find out the exact inductance value which is in the unit of henry (h). From experienced using an inductance meter to check coils to see if it good or bad is not recommended because a shorted coil (shorted between winding) could have a good inductance value and you would miss out checking a bad coil. Unless you want to use the inductance meter to think the reading and do rewinding, looping and etc on that coil. I would only test a big coil with dick smith flyback meter. Any shorted winding in it could be actually detected by this meter.

Now is the time to share my true case example- a computer dealer send me a monitor for mend with power blink symptom. normally I do not right away mend the monitor but I would first use the flyback tester to scan all the major coils (smps, flyback, b+ coil and horizontal deflection coil) before using my digital or analog meter to do testing. When measuring the B+ coil, the Led lights went off and it suppose to show at least 5 Led bars and above. Upon soldering out the coil, I did not see any burn mark at the winding or loop and in fact it looks shiny. Because I trust the meter, I opened up the winding and to my surprised the internal winding had burnt into crisp but the outer winding looks good indeed! A new B+ coil restored the monitor to life.

By using a flyback tester for testing coil, it has helped me to locate many shorted coils in switch mode power transformer traditional winding, B+ coil, flyback transformer traditional winding and horizontal deflection coil. The flyback meter can even be used to check the health of ballast in fluorescent lamp too!

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